The beamed dining room of the restaurant also encouraged an atmosphere of convivial eating; like-minded folk mingling around generously large tables, where dishes were presented as naturally as if given to you by your mother – albeit magically transformed into a gifted Italian one on this occasion. In the summer of 1986, during one of the best holidays I can remember, I went for dinner at Albergo del Sole, in the small town of Maleo, Lombardy, about 60km south-east of Milan. The restaurant had been recommended to me by my friend Johnny Apple, bureau chief of The New York Times, in Washington, who also happens to be a “scribbler gourmand” of great repute and knows pretty much all the very best places to eat throughout the world. Tilt and pour very gently, very slowly, “the wrist will do the work for you”. When it stops bubbling, fill the glass up again, “it gives you time to talk to the guest while you do it” Claridge’s Bar, Davies Street, London W1 (0171-629 8860) Open Mon-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun noon-10.30pm..

“It’s not right to hold a Champagne glass when pouring, and if you tilt the glass you will serve it too quickly,” cautions Paolo. Hold the champagne bottle in one hand, with the thumb in the punt (the deep indentation at the base), fingers spread out round the bottom of the bottle and the label facing up. The open champagne bottle (the cork having been removed as noiselessly as possible) is wrapped in a cloth and taken to the table The glass is placed on a coaster. Variations on this fruity, refreshing fizzy drink could be pureed raspberries or blueberries with another liqueur, such as [itals]creme de framboise.A glass of champagne Six champagnes: Laurent-Perrier, Laurent-Perrier rose, Louis Roederer, Taittinger, Bollinger 90 and half-bottles of Krug, are kept on crushed ice for serving by the glass.

In a blender, reduce 5 strawberries, 5 ice cubes and 2 or 3 dashes of [itals]creme de cassis to a thick puree. Half fill a champagne flute with the mixture and top up with champagne Garnish with a strawberry. Serve it the way the guest wants: up (without ice), on the rocks, dirty (with 2 teaspoons of olive juice), or with a twist of lemon.The Flapper A popular summer drink, “especially with the ladies”, says bar manager Paolo Loureiro. Fill the mixing glass with ice, add 50cl Bombay Sapphire and a minuscule drop of vermouth.